That is a song title, I think, for those of you born after about 1960 or so.........
I will endeavour in this update to cover two days and thus bring me (and you, my faithful readers) up to date. My last post covered the trip to Whitehorse, with some excited side comments about the moose in the swamp behind my camper whilst I was hacking away last evening with two fingers at this less-than-friendly laptop keyboard. It is indeed Saturday night, and I am all alone here in Fort Saint John, BC in the Blue Belle motel. I spoke earlier this evening, by phone, with my long-suffering wife of some 31 years, and unfortunately Suzy has one of her terrible migraines and has been in bed most of the last three days. During those three days I have driven about two thousand kilometres, and frankly I would rather have been behind the wheel, with all its challenges, rather than suffering as Suzy does with her migraines. But at least when she is not nauseous and throwing up, she can eat some good food that I prepared for her and froze in single and double serving sizes, so she will not starve while I am away. Me, I have been eating a lot of sandwiches, made with Wonder Bread (Only $4.29 a loaf at Fraser Lake), salami and processed cheese. In fact, that was tonight’s supper too. Good thing I like sandwiches!
Yesterday morning I left Whitehorse for a serious drive back to central BC. I found out that the Stewart-Cassiar Highway was flooded out yet again, and decided to take the Alaska Highway instead, even though this would add many hours to the trip. It took about five hours to reach Watson Lake, YT, which is quite a pretty little town and where I replenished the diesel tank before pressing on down the Alaska Highway. Just south of town there was a large sign warning motorists to beware of wildlife including bison along the road. Not two minutes later, there was a large bison bull right on the shoulder. My camera, of course, was in the camper, so some minutes later when I found a suitable spot to stop, I got the camera and put it in the cab with me. I then passed a half-dozen bison, all but one of them bulls, but none of them presented an opportunity for a picture. A LONG time later I came across a herd of about a hundred, and did take some pictures. I also spotted a pair of moose when I was descending one side of a mountain valley, on the far side of the valley, and when I got there a few minutes later the cow crossed in front of me and the bull stopped in the middle of the road to menace me – perhaps he thought I was after his girlfriend, but to be honest I found her rather homely and I suspect she didn’t smell all that good either. By the time I had the truck stopped on the shoulder and the camera turned on, he and she were up a hillside and it was a longish camera shot for my el cheapo digital.
Janice had thought I should probably stop at Liard Hot Springs for the night, which was about seven hours or so from Whitehorse. But when I got there I was still feeling OK to drive, so I pressed on. Unfortunately, I forgot that it had been my intention to refuel there as well. Much to my chagrin, I realized this error some 60 or 80 km south and was NOT going to re-trace my route. Then I found that all of the formerly open fuel stops were closed, boarded up, lean years did them in, like so many tourist operations I have passed this month across the country. The poor economy has devastated the tourism industry pretty much everywhere that I have been travelling, and there is not a heck of a lot else for folks to do. It has to be devastating for most of them, and I do pity all the hard-working folks who went under with the downturn. I do have some personal experience with going bust, since my dad went bankrupt (how many times was it, Chief?) more than once when I was a boy growing up in Forest Ontario. Dad owned a feed mill and grain elevator, and when the farmers had a bad year, Dad went under too.
Anyways, there is a resort somewhere south of Liard Hot Springs, owned and operated by a couple who I believe hail from Germany (Hans and Helga Giesbrecht or similar), and who sell diesel fuel for ONLY $1.89.9 per litre, as in fifty-six cents a litre more than I had paid in Watson Lake. At that point I was (foolishly) thinking I might be able to make Fort Nelson, and I needed fuel, so I bought a hundred bucks worth. When I was paying for my purchase, the madam told me that I could have a discount of twenty cents a litre if I stayed there the night. For only $49 plus tax for a CAMPSITE. I declined her kind offer, noted the sand in the Vaseline as she put it to me, and moved on. That was the second time I was screwed by a German, the last time was in Hamburg on the Reperbahn (sp?) when Suzy and I got screwed for forty bucks each. And there was no sex involved, I might add.
Some time later I saw a sign for the Toad River Lodge and RV campground, and decided to stay there for the night. That was where I saw the moose and was trash-talking with the bull. This morning I got up about 0700, heard steps in the swamp, and there were the pair of them, feeding in the swamp. But this time, he would have no part of my trickery, and both of them left for safer pastures.
After coffee and Internet connectivity in the lodge kitchen, I hit the road again. I am pretty sure that the most spectacular scenery I ever saw in my life has been yesterday and today on the Alaska Highway between Watson Lake and Fort Nelson. And I have seen a lot of spectacular country here and there and everywhere. Not QUITE like Johnny Cash (I’ve been everywhere man”), but a lot of places in North America and Europe. Rare for me, I reckon I would actually like to come back here and see this all again. More critters alongside the road, including caribou and south of Prophet River a whole herd of domestic goats. I was cruising along at a good rate of knots and saw “something” on the road, so started to slow down immediately. When I got closer I wondered what the heck I was looking at, and finally when I was almost onto them I saw that they were goats, with one big billy wearing a collar and bell herding them all. I could have had at least twenty if I had maintained my speed!
I realized when I hit Wonowon (Mile 101 of the Alaska Highway) that one of my Gun Nutz buddies lives near here, and I sent him a note when I finally had some WiFi connectivity. Long story short, Kurt aka BC Bigbore does indeed live near here but has been working long hours in the gas and oil fields, and we had a marvellous chat on the phone but unfortunately did not get a chance to meet in person. So I got here to Fort St John, knew that I was pretty much hooped, and decided to take a motel room for the night. You know, direct dial phone, hot bath (WHAT A LUXURY!), wireless Internet that works for about ten minutes per hour, all the comforts of home, and PLUS a microwave to heat my delicious supper (Wonder Bread, only $4.29 a loaf at Fraser Lake, salami and processed cheese). I have had a few phone calls, had enough WiFi connectivity to send a few e-mails, and maybe I will even be able to get this blog posted too.
Tomorrow I am going to try to make it to Mary and Larry’s place, which should be about 7 to 8 hours drive from here. BUT!!! The Pine Pass was all washed out and is under construction, so Lord knows how long it will take. I might have to visit my buddy Glenn again in Prince George, and get the photo taken properly this time – last time I cut off my head in the self-timed snap.
Until the next instalment, keep yer stick on the ice (whatever that means)
Doug
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